The Chateau de Bagnols is a magical sort of place, where the medieval blends harmoniously with the contemporary. Staff are very well trained, there is no stuffiness, and the feeling is as though one is family.

From the Château de Bagnols site:

Château de Bagnols is the finest five-star deluxe château hotel in France and is regarded by many as the finest vineyard chateau hotel in the world. Discovered by Lady Hamlyn in 1987 in a derelict state, she painstakingly restored the château with much energy and vision, to its former glory, revealing Renaissance wall and ceiling paintings created during the château’s finest period when nearby Lyon was one of Europe’s great Renaissance cities.

Dating from the 13th century, the chateau features impressive towers, the original dry moat, honey-coloured stone known as pierres dorées and a dramatic entrance across a drawbridge. The Château de Bagnols is one of France’s major historic monuments as well as a unique luxury hotel with 21 of the most superb rooms and suites in France.

Château de Bagnols is set among vineyards, forests and green hills in the heart of the beautiful Beaujolais countryside in south-east France, just 17 miles from Lyon which has an international airport. A train from Paris or Geneva takes only two hours and the ski slopes of the Alps are a 90-minute drive away.

The Michelin star Salle des Gardes restaurant offers diners the most wonderful selection of regional specialities as well as an impressive selection of Beaujolais wines. Outside, the sun-facing terrace, shaded by 100-year-old lime trees, provides the most spectacular view of the Beaujolais countryside.

Château de Bagnols is a unique experience. Nowhere else in France can provide guests with such historic luxury in such a grandiose yet comfortable environment.

I first stayed at Bagnols some years ago with my sister Margot. Our stay was memorable, and we were fortunate enough to be included in the local ‘Cuvage’, or harvest lunch, hosted in an enormous barn nearby by local vintners and their families. The lunch was the high point of our entire trip, and one of the most authentic and rich experiences of all my travels.

Although designed more with couples in mind, the Chateau does cater to families. I am always always interested to know how such high end properties will deal with families such as my own: my wife and I have five young children. On this occasion we drove from South East Paris, using instructions faxed from the Hotel. These instructions were wonderfully comprehensive, and even included speed camera warnings on the Autoroute.

When we arrived our rooms were not quite ready… We were a little early. We were escorted to the gardens and sat down to admire the panorama.

The gardens at Chateau de Bagnols

We were accommodated in two adjacent suites in the more rustic residence adjoining the main Chateau. The suites were perfectly arranged for our arrival, and a chilled bottle of champagne delivered to our suite before dinner, accompanied by a delicious amuse bouche.

Dinner that evening was appetising and perfectly orchestrated. Regional flavours abounded, and the style of the menu was light and authentic. We chose the degustation menu that evening and the children enjoyed a shortened version. The service was exemplary, and children are readily accepted and catered for. We enjoyed the private dining room, and the main dining room at Bagnols is magnificent. The restaurant holds a Michelin Star. It was quite full on both occasions we dined there.

The dining room

The rooms themselves are works of art, filled with antiques and inspired details. Baths are more common than showers, so be sure to request a room with shower if that is your preference. We stayed in the residence, and found it delightful, but next time we will choose the Chateau, with its grand rooms and period detail. There are suites which connect for families, and the feeling is much more like living in a castle than in the residence wing, which was once a stable block.

A bedroom at the Chateau

The Chateau was purchased in 1997 by Sir Paul and Lady Hamlyn, and meticulously renovated over the next years. No expense was spared in the reconstruction and finishing, and service levels have always been exceptional. We knew of the Chateau because we had heard that it was a favourite place for Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman for house parties, and in fact the Chateau is often booked exclusively for weddings during the season. Our stay was in October, and it did seem that every room was filled, although this may not always be the case. The staff seemed to cope admirably with the business at hand.

Breakfast the next day was not quite as well organised as during my previous stay with my sister, when we had breakfasted on a bridge overlooking the countryside. That was a special experience.
On this occasion it seemed that there was no one in charge, and the staff needed some direction. It may have simply been a rush hour experience, as the hotel was full, and most of the guests appeared ready for an early breakfast. We were due to drive to Milan, and so set off soon after breakfast ourselves.

I left my vintage gold watch in the bathroom and did not realise for some time. Immediately I called the Chateau I was informed that the watch had been turned in by the housekeepers, and I was asked for an address to courier it to that very day. I had the watch back in my possession in no time at all.

My overall impression of this hotel is one of huge finesse, and tremendous consistency. Although my two stays were years apart, I was pleasantly surprised to find the service and attention to be as good as ever, and an inspiration to return again. I cannot recommend the Chateau de Bagnols highly enough, if it is an authentic ‘Grand Chateau’ experience that is the goal. If you fancy the silver tumblers, or even the marble bathtub, you can pop over the road to the store where almost everything (down to glassware, sheets, towels and even furnishings) can be ordered with ease. Very tempting.

The Chateau de Bagnols is best suited to an indulgent long weekend or overnight stop for those who love good food, fine wine and truly inspired surroundings. The local area is filled with boutique wineries, and Lyon itself is widely accepted as the gastronomic capital of France, if not Europe. The place itself feels wonderful, inside and out, and we wanted simply to relax and drink it all in… so much so that the beautiful pool at the end of the garden seemed too far to walk. We became distracted along the way by the expansive views and secret gardens. A most memorable stay.

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